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February 8th, 2014
thesmithian

Drowning, after all, feels like almost drowning until it feels like nothing. When I ask Dollar to explain the sensation of almost drowning, his answer, and the way he holds his face as he says it, makes me feel that the question is an intrusive one. “It’s just depressing and lonely,” he says, not making eye contact. “The lights start turning off, literally. It blinks in your mind and goes black. Pretty soon, it’s just lights out and you’re done.” He pauses awkwardly. “It’s really fucking weird.”

more.

November 4th, 2013
thesmithian

kanakaknowledge:

Montgomery Ernest Thomas Kaluhiʻokalani (born March 30’th, 1959 - died November 2’nd, 2013) died from lung cancer. Known mostly as Buttons, he was a Hawaiian surfing legend who lived on the North Shore of Oʻahu and is well known throughout Hawaiʻi for being an amazing surf instructor and a great family man. Rest in Paradise uncle.. Ā HUI HOU!! 

[look of the hour]

Reblogged from Keep Hawaiʻi Hawaiian
August 4th, 2013
thesmithian

The story starts with a view of the village, showing the beautiful landscape and idyllic surfing conditions. To the credit of the film’s creator Adam Pesce…while he glorifies the sport of surfing with breathtaking imagery, he does not ignore the very real implications of injecting a leisure sport into a near-subsistence culture. This passion tears some of the surfers’ lives apart while fulfilling some others’ greatest dreams.

more.

August 4th, 2013
thesmithian

"I don’t think of surfing and people as a color. No matter where in the world there are waves, there are surfers of all color. It’s not an issue of color, it’s an issue of let’s surf, let’s get together, let’s not hurt each other, let’s all get along…"

more.

August 4th, 2013
thesmithian

…traces the technological evolution of surfboards, which have mostly sprung from…engineers at California universities and aerospace companies, and how such innovations have changed the way surfers can carve up waves…these threads are stitched into historical context, as these academics delve into…matters of colonialism, racism, sexism and violent localism. The authors even plow into the ecological history of filling wetlands, damming streams and building jetties and seawalls in Hawaii and California—all designed to protect real estate often sold with advertisements featuring romantic surfing images. In the end, though, the dramatic reengineering of the coastline has ruined many of the best waves that surfers loved to ride.

more.

July 25th, 2013
thesmithian

The fall schedule [for ‘30 for 30’] begins…October 1 with Hawaiian: The Legend of Eddie Aikau, a look at one of Hawaii’s biggest surfing legends, and concludes on November 5 with Tonya and Nancy, an inside look at the scandal involving Tonya Harding and Nancy Kerrigan…The only film in the fall season that deals with women…directed by Nanette Burstein, [is] also the only film with a female director. Of theseries’ first 51 films, only three were about female athletes, and only four featured female directors or co-directors.

more.

April 1st, 2013
thesmithian

…forceful coming-of-age story set circa 1989, against the backdrop of the violent beginning of apartheid’s end, Otelo Burning examines different paths to freedom—finding it in moments of escape, fighting others for it—and the significant costs inherent in each approach.

more. and more.

October 4th, 2012
thesmithian

You park your car. If the waves are good you sit and watch and ponder it for a while. You grab your car keys in the towel. And you jump in the ocean. And you have to wait until there is a break in the waves…And you put on a fin—and you only have one fin—and if you catch the right wave you cut left because left is west…Then you cut down into the tube there. You might see the crest rolling and you might see the sun glittering. You might see a sea turtle in profile, sideways, like a hieroglyph in the water… . And you spend an hour out there. And if you’ve had a good day you’ve caught six or seven good waves and six or seven not so good waves. And you go back to your car. With a soda or a can of juice. And you sit. And you can watch the sun go down …”

—President Obama, on what he would do with one day off.

more, and the responses from some surfers about his dream.

July 9th, 2012
thesmithian

…is “urban surfing” truly focused on the sport itself or does it have more to do with an aesthetic sensibility?

more.

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